Older ceramic coating

Jeffb

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Plan to ceramic coat my Toyota Avalon with Dr Beasley Nano Resin MX,

Presently coated with Carpro CQuartz UZk 3.0. Around 2 years old.

Plan to use NSP 45, do I need to use another product to remove Ceramic?

Thank You!
 
Plan to ceramic coat my Toyota Avalon with Dr Beasley Nano Resin MX,

Presently coated with Carpro CQuartz UZk 3.0. Around 2 years old.

Plan to use NSP 45, do I need to use another product to remove Ceramic?

Thank You!


This is a GREAT question. The Dr. Beasley's NSP 45 is a fine cut polish, with a foam polishing pad on an orbital polisher, it may be able to completely abrade off the current coating.

Here's how I would test.
  • Place a tapeline down on the hood or trunk lid, a horizontal panel you can look down on.
  • Polish on one side of the tape line like you will normally plan to do the entire car.
  • Wipe off the reside, remove the tape, and then do a Panel Wipe just to make sure anything topical on both sides is removed.
  • Then spray the panel with water and pay attention to how the water reacts to both sides - the old coating side and the freshly polished side.

If you still see signs of water beading on the CarPro side, but the water is laying flat on the NSP 45 side - then I think this will be a good indicator that the NSP 45 abraded all the old coating off the paint.

If you don't have a panel wipe, normal hardware store mineral spirits will work. You could also wash the test panel with a detergent wash like Dawn dishwashing soap.


Mike
 
You could also wash the test panel with a detergent wash like Dawn dishwashing soap.

I don't know if you remember this, but over at AGO for a while a guy was posting who was a chemist at a detailing product blender in the UK, who along with some testing from SwanicYouth, kind of "proved" that Dawn and a lot of other things can "clog" (at that time) waxes and sealants, and make it seem that they are gone because the beading is flat. I have the threads bookmarked but of course they aren't working now, but the chemist had a hood with sealant on it, which was beading, washed it with some sort of dish detergent, it was flat, IPA-wiped, beading came back.

He said he knew that a good sealant was impossible to remove with dish soap because when they would clean the mixing vats at the blender, they had to scrub with toluene or xylene to get the sealant residue off. Whether the Dawn surfactants will clog a coating, I don't know.

PS The whole thing threw a new light on the idea that you could get a "virgin" surface to try a new LSP by washing with Dawn, when likely your new LSP was going down on top of a layer of Dawn sheeting surfactants (to keep from getting water spots on your dishes), which was attached to your old LSP.
 
I don't know if you remember this, but over at AGO for a while a guy was posting who was a chemist at a detailing product blender in the UK, who along with some testing from SwanicYouth, kind of "proved" that Dawn and a lot of other things can "clog" (at that time) waxes and sealants, and make it seem that they are gone because the beading is flat. I have the threads bookmarked but of course they aren't working now, but the chemist had a hood with sealant on it, which was beading, washed it with some sort of dish detergent, it was flat, IPA-wiped, beading came back.

He said he knew that a good sealant was impossible to remove with dish soap because when they would clean the mixing vats at the blender, they had to scrub with toluene or xylene to get the sealant residue off. Whether the Dawn surfactants will clog a coating, I don't know.

PS The whole thing threw a new light on the idea that you could get a "virgin" surface to try a new LSP by washing with Dawn, when likely your new LSP was going down on top of a layer of Dawn sheeting surfactants (to keep from getting water spots on your dishes), which was attached to your old LSP.

All good but I mean wash with Dawn - OR - use a panel wipe or mineral spirits to SIMPLY clean the surface after polishing ONE side of the tape line to visually see if there's any noticeable difference.

This person is wanting to remove the CarPro coating before installing the Dr. Beasley's coating. I'm not sure if NSP 45 has enough bite as it is a FINE cut polish. Even an Ultra Fine cut polish.

That said - Jeff says this coating has been on there for 2 years. My thinking is - TEST the NSP 45 and see if it looks like it's removing the old coating using some type of VISUAL test. Please share any ther ways to accuratly know if a polishing step removes and old coating. The Dawn wash, isn't to remove the coating, it's to remove the NanoGel that the Nano Abrasive technology is embodied in for our Primers.

Of course, Jeff could always use something more aggressive and not even worry about it.

Here's what I know. I've had to do SPOT REPAIRS to installed coatings, and for the most part, most polishes with a polishing pad, an orbital polisher and a few solid section passes WILL REMOVE the coating. So I'm not trying to play chemist or make this more difficult than it needs to be, just help Jeff remove and know he has removed, the old coating.


Makes sense? :)


Mike
 
Yeah, I'm sorry I wasn't trying to make things more complicated, as you noted above it's sometimes hard to resolve if you have actually removed an LSP. I'll bear in mind how fine NSP 45 is since I'm itching to try those polishes.
 
Yeah, I'm sorry I wasn't trying to make things more complicated, as you noted above it's sometimes hard to resolve if you have actually removed an LSP. I'll bear in mind how fine NSP 45 is since I'm itching to try those polishes.

It's always natural for detailing to be complicated, the trick is to unpack that box and make it simple. :)


Mike
 
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