Also just to note,
As an option, you can do the chemical decontamination process BEFORE washing the car. This assumes you're going to spray-on an iron remover or fallout remover. The reason why is you don't want to WIPE on a decontamination liquid if there is still dirt on the car - because you haven't pre-rinsed, or contact washed.
Why?
I use to use this approach because of physics. If you wash and rinse the car and then spray on an iron remover, the action of spraying on an iron remover will BREAK the surface tension between any standing water on the car and the paint and what happens is your chemical decontamination product will simply run off the car and onto the ground. Kind of a waste of product, money and time.
What works better is to spray a DRY car down with your choice of iron remover or fallout remover, allow it to dwell and GO TO WORK ON THE PAINT but without drying, and then blast off with a strong spray of water and/or a pressure washer.
Because you're spraying this liquid chemical cleaner onto a DRY but dirty car, the dryness plus the accumulated dirt/dust/pollen, etc., will hold the liquid chemical decontamination product ONTO the paint, where it can go to work, instead of running off the car.
EXPERTS on the INTERNET
Just to note, there are always experts on the Internet that will say it is their opinion, spraying an iron remover onto dry paint is bad technique. They are entitled to their opinion, but before I stopped using iron removers on car, I did this often without any problems.
So just be aware, spraying a liquid chemical decontamination product onto dry paint can come with risks. You should always read the directions on the label of the product and heed the instructions of the manufacturer because they know their products chemistry best.
Mike
