Advice on washing a very dusty car

I was finally able to wash my car and it cleaned up pretty well. I used multiple wash mitts and the blotting method too.

More mitts equals more gooder :)

However, with that being said the top surfaces are very rough. I don't even need to drag a baggie across it to know there is imbedded contaminates. This is the result of not covering the car for 7 years while working on it with the garage door open during the warm months.

Yup, airborne pollution and contamination. Always the enemy of our cars.


I used a mild clay bar in a small area and there was a ton of dirt picked up. I plan on only using the clay bar on the top surfaces because the vertical surfaces feel very clean and smooth.

That's kind of normal. Most contamination in the air is falling downward, thus it gets on all the horizontal surfaces, including the glass, like glass sunroofs, etc. BUT, if the airborne contamination is sticky, like tree sap mist or overspray paint, AND the wind is blowing, the wind will deposit the contamination onto vertical sides.


I wasn't too happy with the buffing job the body shop did to begin with and remember seeing swirls, etc from the body shops buffer so I was planning on doing some sort of paint correction anyway.

A body shops key strength is getting paint on the car, buffing is an unwanted afterthought. And sad to say, most body shops do quicky buff jobs, a lot of the time using only a rotary buffer and this is the root cause for most of the swirls or technically, holograms.

My neighbor just obtained his car back from the body shop after a fender-bender. He really takes good care of his car. He was severely disappointed that after the body shop finish it, it is now filled with swirls. They did a courtesy buff.

Expect to see this car here at Dr. Beasley's for a warm-over. :)


There is a small spot\stain on the black satin paint on the hood I need to figure out how to remove (image #2). Do you have any suggestions on what to use? I obviously can't do paint correction or polish on that surface.

When it comes to matte paint and matte graphics, the only safe option is to use a chemical method versus abrading or even rubbing hard. If you rub too hard you will leave a spot where you rubbed. Dr. Beasley's does have a decon for matte paint, but if the spot has been there for a while and it remains after washing and drying, it might be permanent.

No one ever likes my suggestion for issues like these, but you could always put a sticker over the spot. Then place a second one on the opposite side of the hood for a uniform appearance.

full



I will use my Rupes Bigfoot Mark III for the test of the car. I just need to decide what product I'm going to use. I've attached pics after the wash.

Great looking car.

Question? Which orbit stroke length RUPES polisher do you have?


Mike
 
I have the LHR15. I've used it many times with success on cars with various paint issues. I always try and catch your videos when I can.

:)

Perfect, we have 16 of the corded Mark V 15mm polishers and 2 of the cordless versions and they are very popular in my classes as they are so smooth under operation.

Let me know if I can help. And you can source the STP stickers on eBay. :)


Mike
 
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