Been using a G8 and G9

[Lance Mark]

I've learned to use a combination of abrasives, pads, and machines, and I'm getting good results, but I'd like to try some other methods.

I started with foam pads, and dual action machines, as I'd learned they are a good for beginners. This is a few years back. Guys are paying me to make their bikes look like mine now.

I prefer to work on and specialize in motorcycles. They are curvy and a DA machine doesn't seem to be the best option. I can pull it off and I've gotten good at making it dance, but I want to see what I can do with a rotary polosher.

I'm open to different pad choices, polishers, and abrasives.

Swirling ranges from moderate to severe on most of the bikes I do. Guys with good intentions damage their bikes with poor washing methods and I'll usually have work to do on the entire bike. As well, they swing legs and boots over hard bags and fenders, drag belt buckles across gas tanks, and tie leather bags to a clear coated surfaces before they realize the damage it does. On top of addressing the swirling, it's not unusual for me to have a short punch list of severe mars and scratches they are hoping I can address.

Sometimes I need a heavy lifter.

I normally use a 2" and 3" pads for a bike, anything bigger isn't needed.

In place of the following, what would you recommend?

G8 or G9
Boss foam pads
Wolfgang Concourse Series Abrasives

 

[Mike Phillips]

I would strongly recommend getting a cordless FLEX PE14 with an extension and then get some 1", 2" and 3" foam pads. Get these in foam cutting and foam polishing and use the rotary for all your correction work.

Then switch back to the orbital for removing any holograms and finishing out show car quality.

Me? I don't like buffing out bikes, just not my thing.


MIke

 

[Lance Mark]

I would strongly recommend getting a cordless FLEX PE14 with an extension and then get some 1", 2" and 3" foam pads. Get these in foam cutting and foam polishing and use the rotary for all your correction work.

Then switch back to the orbital for removing any holograms and finishing out show car quality.

Me? I don't like buffing out bikes, just not my thing.


MIke

you're not alone among detailers....it's why I got into this....i didn't want an otherwise competent detailer working on my bike if he sees it as drudgery and a chore....my thoughts were, if they don't love doing it, they're not going to do it right

 

[Mike Phillips]

i didn't want an otherwise competent detailer working on my bike if he sees it as drudgery and a chore....

my thoughts were, if they don't love doing it, they're not going to do it right

Great and sound reasoning.


-Mike

 

[Lance Mark]

Great and sound reasoning.


-Mike

I appreciate the advice on a next tool for my collection.

When I first got into this, you had given some great guidance to a friend who pointed me to you. I watch what folks do, and you've been the single greatest source of solid, sensible advice when it comes to detailing.

I'm still learning and I'm glad I found you here. I've gotten pretty good with what I use and know, and really enjoy the work. As a result, I've started taking on some jobs for pay. Still love to do it, but getting paid is pretty cool too. If I keep doing this, I've looked at the time I've put into some recent jobs, and as much as I love to do it, I need to get more efficient. Its why I was asking about a geared polisher as far as a machine goes. I can get the g8 and g9 to handle some pretty heavy marring, but it takes a lot of time. As I'm learning and trying some new things, I'll be sure to look for your advice and I'll probably have questions.

Have great day, sir.

 

[2black1s]

... If I keep doing this, I've looked at the time I've put into some recent jobs, and as much as I love to do it, I need to get more efficient. Its why I was asking about a geared polisher as far as a machine goes...

While a rotary will generally speed up the correction of heavy defects, the time you will save on a typical Harley will only be a small percentage when considering the entire job.

My experience with bikes is that the time spent on paint polishing and LSP is usually only about 20-25% of the entire job. There are so many intricacies on bikes, besides the paint, that take the majority of your time. The paint polishing is a smaller percentage of the entire job.

Contrast that to a typical car where the polishing and LSP is closer to 70-75% of the entire job.

As far as bikes go, I would look at the rotary as simply the better and more enjoyable tool for certain areas/circumstances... But the time savings will be minimal, especially if you're going to do a final finish with a DA.

My go-to polishers for bikes are my G8 DA and GR3 Rotary. I also have a Rupes Mille gear-driven DA, but I've never used it on a bike. It's just not a good fit in my opinion.

 

[Lance Mark]

good to see you here as well, 2black1s