Dr Beasley's Polishes

TMQ

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Mike,

Got a question for you.
Are these Beasley's polishes a lick hard to remove?
I have found the Z1, 45, 95 and the 150 to be bit hard to remove. Tried it the other day---the 95 stuck to the car so hard that I had to re-polish again to remove the 95.
This is the old version - Is the new version easy to remove now?

Mr Tommy
 
Hi Tom,

The answer is "yes". Jim has been reformulating the NSP Primers to make them easier to remove plus some other changes.

I never have problems removing any of these but I am in an air-conditioned shop.



Mike
 
Honestly I wasn’t a fan of these compounds or polishes after trying these a few weeks ago. My biggest issue was also the Harder than should be removal. I was in a climate controlled work space.
 
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The concept behind the primers is perfect---cut/finish and at the same time, lay down a base for coatings w/o panel wipes. That's music to my ears!

But.....It's just too hard and too long for me to get the car prepped for coatings with these primers. I've found it's faster to do straight up cut and polish, then quick panel wipe and then onto coating.
My elbows and shoulders is much better off doing it this way.

I'll jump in with both feet if the primers were easier to remove otherwise I'll stick to easy polish removal and easy panel wipes.

Jim will control the coating world once he gets those primers to wipe off easily! And I'll be first in line too!

Oh, before I forget and all in fairness to the Beasley line: These primers DO cut very, very well! Gloss is off the charts and cuts faster than a standard polish. I was blown away how it finishes down too.
It is just simply too long and hard to remove.

And I just used them last week!

Mr Tommy
 
The hood and trunk were polished with NSP 95...
Cuts much faster than regular polishes and finished down beautifully!

IMG_7452.jpegIMG_7453.jpegIMG_7454.jpegIMG_7455.jpeg
 
The Flex beast, yellow Rupes pads, NSP 45, 4 or 5 section passes with moderate arm movements.

This is very, very fast for the amount of cut it gave me.

The rapid process was lost when trying to remove the polish. (Remember, these polishes I have are the early versions of the NSP products when it first came out).

Mr Tommy's
 
In the last 6 months, I've detailed 6 different cars with single stage paint. Some of these cars had MODERN single stage paint, this means the paint was Urethane. Some of these cars had old-school single stage paint, this means they were solvent-evaporation single stage paint like lacquer or enamel.

One of these cars was the 1969 GTO that I did Sub-surface glass polishing for the windshield, you can read about this project here,

Removing Windshield Swirls, Scratches & Wiper Marks on a ’69 GTO


For my initial Test Spot on the hood, I used a popular polish that I had previously thought used great abrasive technology. What I found was the product removed the swirls and scratches but left micro-marring in the paint. That is to say, instead of having a clear, deep red shine, the paint now looked cloudy or foggy. I then tested another established brand of polish and obtained the exact same results.

Next I tested the NSP 95 Primer. Like the other 2 products, it removed the swirls and scratches but left a clear, bright red finish.

Next I buffed a portion of the other sections I previously buffed with non-Dr. Beasley's products and to my surprise but also to my relief, the NSP 95 removed all the micro-marring and left zero micro-marring behind.

What this showed me was that the spherical abrasive technology used in the Dr. Beasley's NSP Primers works on both hard paints AND soft paints, better than some products I had previously had a lot of faith in.


FWIW


Mike

1969GTOsubglass071.jpg
 
I agree with you Mike. Just used this last week on the Chevelle and paint just exploded!

I was surprised with the results. Been away from these NSP's for long time.

Now let get these to wipe off nicely!

Mr Tommy...
 
I watched the videos, even ones the guz did on how to best use nsp abrasives before i tried 95 and 45 a couple months back. I had bad luck, no matter what i tried it was a pain to wipe off.

Not to mention neither got rid of my buffer marks from compounding step with my rotary. I was able to remove them as i always do with my normal polishing routine, 3d 502 (now 520) 6 section passes, lc force white pads on supa beast.

The guz did however message me that i needed to work the nsp abrasives longer. Which i appriciated the help. But its faster if i stick to my normal routine.

I ended up returning both 95 and 45.
 
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