Flex Beast Polisher

[bo_davenport]

Mike, when using the forced rotation Flex beast and performance a swirl removal session do you recommend keeping the polisher around a speed setting of 4 or go up to 5/6 as a traditional DA? I realize that every paint and car is a different situation but as a rule of thumb as far as heat and other factors go. On the same note would you polish (gloss step) on speed 3 or would you recommend using a free spinning DA for the final step. Just curious as to your thoughts. Thanks and I am enjoying the forum and the threads.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Great question. And just to preface my answer - I'm very likely different than most BEAST users. For the most part, on any of the 3 BEAST tools - I'm on speed setting 6 for everything.


With the CBEAST - I will often place tape around the tool body to keep the speed dial on the 6 speed setting. No time for bumping it by accident and dropping to a lower speed.

With the BEAST and the Supa BEAST - on on speed 6 unless I'm doing some finesse work on edge and even then - I'm on speed 6.

And I can't remember ever using the tool on speed 4 or lower. The BEASTS smooth out at speed 5 and faster.


And for those reading this into the future, I've switched all my CBEASTS and Supa BEASTS over to the optional 6" backing plate so I can turn and churn larger pads. These tools have the power, might as well take advantage of it. Plus, with the 5" backing plate and matching small 5.5" pads - the tool feels "wonky" to me. A larger footprint eliminates the wonk.


Just finished straightening up the garage and going through all the microfiber towels and buffing pads. Getting ready for our big 3-day class. Time to call it a day. I'll be here late tomorrow after work and probably most of Saturday sanding, buffing and coating the 1967 Mustang. Had to bring some semblance of order to the shop first.

 

[bo_davenport]

Great question. And just to preface my answer - I'm very likely different than most BEAST users. For the most part, on any of the 3 BEAST tools - I'm on speed setting 6 for everything.


With the CBEAST - I will often place tape around the tool body to keep the speed dial on the 6 speed setting. No time for bumping it by accident and dropping to a lower speed.

With the BEAST and the Supa BEAST - on on speed 6 unless I'm doing some finesse work on edge and even then - I'm on speed 6.

And I can't remember ever using the tool on speed 4 or lower. The BEASTS smooth out at speed 5 and faster.


And for those reading this into the future, I've switched all my CBEASTS and Supa BEASTS over to the optional 6" backing plate so I can turn and churn larger pads. These tools have the power, might as well take advantage of it. Plus, with the 5" backing plate and matching small 5.5" pads - the tool feels "wonky" to me. A larger footprint eliminates the wonk.


Just finished straightening up the garage and going through all the microfiber towels and buffing pads. Getting ready for our big 3-day class. Time to call it a day. I'll be here late tomorrow after work and probably most of Saturday sanding, buffing and coating the 1967 Mustang. Had to bring some semblance of order to the shop first.

Thanks for the reply Mike, as well as answering my question on the Procoat 2.0 yesterday. Good luck with the Mustang!

 

[bo_davenport]

Thanks for the reply Mike, as well as answering my question on the Procoat 2.0 yesterday. Good luck with the Mustang!

I have the old school beast and was just curious how you tackled it, thanks again

 

[Mike Phillips]

I have the old school beast and was just curious how you tackled it, thanks again

BEAST
The original BEAST is the best BEAST when SPEED is the priority or the paint is hard and also if the defects are deep. I will tend to use the BEAST for cars in really bad shape and when I need to plow through the job.

Supa BEAST
If the car isn't too bad, the paint isn't super hard and the defects either are not deep and/or buff out easy - then I'll use the Supa BEAST. I like that it's,

1. Lighter
2. Quieter
3. Cooler
4. Smoother

Than the original.


CBEAST
If all I need to do is light correct and/or the paint is soft and/or the defects are shallow and buffing out easy - the freedom of not having to use a corded tool is great. I also use the CBEAST for paint in the medium to soft range if I cut the paint first using a wool pad on a rotary. When using great abrasive technology with a wool pad on a rotary, the holograms are shallow because for the most part, they are being instilled by the FIBERS - not the abrasives and thus they will buff out easy so the CBEAST can handle the job.

For cars like this, it means I can do all the paint correction with cordless tools. I only use the cordless FLEX rotary polisher for heavy cutting now days. It will do EVERYTHING a corded rotary polisher will do without the cord. And if the paint fits the description above, this means I can follow the cordless rotary with the cordless BEAST thus I can do the entire car with cordless tool.

Tonight I'll be doing my Sanding Test Spot on the roof of the Mustang. I'll find out if the paint is hard or soft and this will tell me which tools I'll need to complete the job.


Mike