How to Polish Aluminum - Complete Guide by Mike Phillips

[Mike Phillips]

How to Polish Aluminum - Complete Guide by Mike Phillips

Here's a brand new how-to article on polishing aluminum

How to Polish Aluminum - Complete Guide by Mike Phillips

Here's before

Mike

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Wow, that was a lot of work! Did you polish right over that Aerovault applique lettering? I'd be afraid of lifting an edge--or is that actually painted on?

 

[Mike Phillips]

Wow, that was a lot of work! Did you polish right over that AeroVault applique lettering? I'd be afraid of lifting an edge--or is that actually painted on?

I don't normally, or like to cuss in the online world, but buffing out the aluminum on this trailer was a shit ton of work. Super dirty too. And I simply through away any of the foam pads I used for this project.

As for the vinyl graphics, I did buff over them after first TESTING to see how durable they would be and they seem to take licking and keep on ticking.

I don't normally like doing this type of work but the owner brings me a LOT of really expensive classic Ferraris to prep for concours events, so I do my best to take care of him.


1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Detailed by Mike Phillips

Thanks for chiming in Mike.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

That was quite a comprehensive writeup. As you noted that kind of metal polishing is always so dirty. I've had a couple of cars where the wheel barrels weren't painted from the factory, and trying to keep them presentable was such a problem I wound up having the wheels refinished so I could have painted barrels. Of course I didn't know about Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat back then. I still have black splatter on my shop cabinets from last time I was polishing the back of one of those wheels.

 

[Mike Phillips]

That was quite a comprehensive writeup.

The original version came in at over 9000 words and I think 211 pictures. The article is actually being broken up into 3 different articles and different tools or methods for polishing aluminum, which is an option I wrote-for when writing the article.

I have the original here on the forum and at some point will finish editing it and then making it public.


Mike

 

[Mak]

Great article and information. Until I started working on refining and perfecting the finish of my bare aluminum Panoz, I never would have guessed it was so unforgiving and more difficult than paint. I would almost swear it seems to get those random micro-scratches, pigtails, and swirls even easier than paint. That nasty black residue makes such a mess and gets all over everything and practically ruins the pads and towels. I get more uses out of the foam but just can’t get the wool clean enough to have any fluff or resemblance to wool after a brief use and loading up with the black gunky oxidation residue.
Loving the corn starch tip…

 

[Sqeekykleen]

This is a fantastic and comprehensive write up. I have one question, though, when one polishes metal should one be wearing a respirator? The contaminants that are generated in the process are not good for someone to inhale. Something like this with cartridges attached, or even a 1/2 face respirator.

 

[Mike Phillips]

This is a fantastic and comprehensive write up.

Thanks, I worked pretty hard on the project, article and videos.

I have one question, though, when one polishes metal should one be wearing a respirator?

Except for photography and video work, I did wear a respirator. I should have included this in the article. This not only was a huge undetaking to capture the action and type up all the copy, doing the actual work was also a huge undertaking.

Thanks for including this important aspect.


And apologies for the late reply, I was at SEMA all last week and just now playing catch-up here on Mondy morning, November 11th, 2024.


So good to be back home.


Mike

 

[Mak]

Once you progress to the foam pad on a random orbit, what speed/RPM do you find optimal?

 

[Mike Phillips]

Once you progress to the foam pad on a random orbit, what speed/RPM do you find optimal?

I used a combination of the simple, but battle-proven Porter Cable 7425XP with some soft light blue foam finishing pads from SM Arnold. And also, the corded FLEX 15mm Finisher with soft white foam finishing pads from Lake Country - branded McKee's but made by Lake Country.

For both of these tools I would have been on the highest speed setting from start to finish.

Nice question, thank you for asking



For perfecting the aluminum on your Panoz,

After you remove as many defects as possible, then I might be on the 5-speed setting for the final polish the idea being to not be too aggressive but still be able to maintain good pad rotation/oscillation. Probably easier to do with the PC versus the long stroke action of the Finisher.


Mike

 

[Mak]

I used a combination of the simple, but battle-proven Porter Cable 7425XP with some soft light blue foam finishing pads from SM Arnold. And also, the corded FLEX 15mm Finisher with soft white foam finishing pads from Lake Country - branded McKee's but made by Lake Country.

For both of these tools I would have been on the highest speed setting from start to finish.

Nice question, thank you for asking



For perfecting the aluminum on your Panoz,

After you remove as many defects as possible, then I might be on the 5-speed setting for the final polish the idea being to not be too aggressive but still be able to maintain good pad rotation/oscillation. Probably easier to do with the PC versus the long stroke action of the Finisher.


Mike

Thank you much for the tips. I was just out now experimenting a little. I did find last week that after the last stage 3000 abrasive discs, going straight to a heavy foam instead of wool did not work like I was wondering. Definitely had to use wool on the rotary first.

I’ve tried both the 3401 Beast and my old Porter Cable, and in my case I can’t see a difference in the final polish. I’ve tried on both the higher and lower speeds and had settled on the 5 setting, so interesting that you too suggest that for the final stage. I have found the old Porter Cable a little easier to manage and maneuver for the same results though.

On another note, I purchased some White Diamond per your article, and honestly it is performing better than anything I have yet used. I’m actually surprised because up until now I haven’t found much difference in any that I have tried. And I have tried a bunch… Chemical Guys heavy, 3D, Flitz, Mother’s, California purple, and Renegade Red heavy-cut, and others.

I had semi-settled on the Chemical Guys because it didn’t sling as bad and seemed to wipe off slightly easier. However, what I found odd is that I really could see no difference in the “cut” or polishing, or number of passes required for any of them. I would have expected to see a difference between the “heavy cut” products vs the others, especially when I can feel a difference in the texture of grit of the compound.

The heavy cut compounds don’t seem to leave more swirls or RO scratches, and the supposedly more aggressive products seem to give me a final polish that appears as good as any of the others. I can see a difference in the final polish if I use a white pad vs a softer black pad.

Maybe before I get too old to work on this anymore I will finally get the finish where I want it.

Until then I guess it keeps me off the streets and out of trouble.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Thank you much for the tips. I was just out now experimenting a little. I did find last week that after the last stage 3000 abrasive discs, going straight to a heavy foam instead of wool did not work like I was wondering. Definitely had to use wool on the rotary first.

Your experience is in line with what my long-time friend, Joe Fernandez said to me years ago,

“Aluminum isn’t forgiving like car paint.” -Joe Fernandez, Superior Shine

Basically, what this means is whatever the step in the process, you have to NAIL IT during that step because the next step will not clean-up anything you missed. So yeah, a spinning fiber pad with a metal polish to abrade and level scratches flat when working on aluminum.

I’ve tried both the 3401 Beast and my old Porter Cable, and in my case I can’t see a difference in the final polish. I’ve tried on both the higher and lower speeds and had settled on the 5 setting, so interesting that you too suggest that for the final stage. I have found the old Porter Cable a little easier to manage and maneuver for the same results though.

Definitely a free spinning random orbital polisher easy to use than a gear-driven orbital. As for differences in results - I would only give the PC a tick better advantage, but the difference could be so negligible it won't matter.

On another note, I purchased some White Diamond per your article, and honestly it is performing better than anything I have yet used. I’m actually surprised because up until now I’ve found much difference in any that I have tried. And I have tried a bunch… Chemical Guys heavy, 3D, Flitz, Mother’s, California purple, and Renegade Red heavy-cut, and others.

Good stuff. Learned about it from the best Harley Davidson detailer I've ever met - RobHarleyDetailer.com

Maybe before I get too old to work on this anymore I will finally get the finish where I want it.

Until then I guess it keeps me off the streets and out of trouble.

Copy that and copy that.


Mike