Process for Correction and Coating

[BradNC]

Mike, thanks a lot for putting this place together. I’ve followed your videos from a few places you’ve been during the last few months while I have been catching up on the changes in detailing from the last time I was really into it 20 years ago. I have a few questions.

1. Which book of yours would you recommend most? Is it available electronically so I can read it on a device? What’s the best place to purchase from for you?

2. I don’t currently have any 3D products but have access to purchasing them through a body shop I used to work at. Which of their products would you consider to be must-haves for the arsenal compared to competitor products?

3. I’m going to do a full correction and ceramic coating on my wife’s Hyundai (for practice, soft paint) and then my BMW (hard clear). Do you see any glaring issues in my process order, products, or anything else? My polisher is a G9 and I’m willing to spend more time working or in research to do things right. I enjoy the process and education as much or more than the result. The BMW paint is in great shape. 26k miles and no real scratches or damage. Just never been corrected before. It’s a black sapphire color.

Process:

1. Wash - Adam’s Car Shampoo
2. Clean wheels/tires - P&S Brake Buster
3. Bug Spray - Turtle Wax but considering switch to 3D
4. Wash
5. Iron Remover - Car Pro Iron X
6. Tar Remover - Car Pro Tar X
7. Wash
8. Clay Bar - Cheap Mothers bar and quick detailer
9. Correction - Sonax Perfect Finish, start with Lake Country Yellow pads and finish with black pads. Will likely use Griot’s compound on the Hyundai with cheaper pads
10. IPA wipe - Car Pro Eraser
11. Ceramic Base - 2 coats of CQuartz UK 3.0
12. Ceramic Top - 1 coat of CQuartz SiC

I have all the materials on hand already but I’m willing to replace if there’s something significantly better.

Any other input?

 

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, thanks a lot for putting this place together. I’ve followed your videos from a few places you’ve been during the last few months while I have been catching up on the changes in detailing from the last time I was really into it 20 years ago. I have a few questions.

1. Which book of yours would you recommend most? Is it available electronically so I can read it on a device? What’s the best place to purchase from for you?

All of the books I've written in the past are now so out of date. You will get the best and most up to date information by doing what you're doing right now. Finding a forum like this or the 3D forum where I and others are happy to help out.

2. I don’t currently have any 3D products but have access to purchasing them through a body shop I used to work at. Which of their products would you consider to be must-haves for the arsenal compared to competitor products?

I'm finishing an article right now that shares the products I would have in my arsenal, but here's the nutshell version,

510 Premium Rubbing Compound - by the quart
520 Finishing Polish - by the quart
SPEED - by the quart or the gallon - it's that good
Bead it Up - here's my article on how to buy Bead It Up


3D Bead it Up - Do yourself a huge favor and purchase by the gallon

The above is a good introduction to the 3D line, but all their products are top shelf.

3. I’m going to do a full correction and ceramic coating on my wife’s Hyundai (for practice, soft paint) and then my BMW (hard clear). Do you see any glaring issues in my process order, products, or anything else? My polisher is a G9 and I’m willing to spend more time working or in research to do things right. I enjoy the process and education as much or more than the result. The BMW paint is in great shape. 26k miles and no real scratches or damage. Just never been corrected before. It’s a black sapphire color.

Process:

1. Wash - Adam’s Car Shampoo
2. Clean wheels/tires - P&S Brake Buster
3. Bug Spray - Turtle Wax but considering switch to 3D
4. Wash
5. Iron Remover - Car Pro Iron X
6. Tar Remover - Car Pro Tar X
7. Wash
8. Clay Bar - Cheap Mothers bar and quick detailer
9. Correction - Sonax Perfect Finish, start with Lake Country Yellow pads and finish with black pads. Will likely use Griot’s compound on the Hyundai with cheaper pads
10. IPA wipe - Car Pro Eraser
11. Ceramic Base - 2 coats of CQuartz UK 3.0
12. Ceramic Top - 1 coat of CQuartz SiC

I have all the materials on hand already but I’m willing to replace if there’s something significantly better.

Any other input?

The above will work.

 

[BradNC]

Awesome info! Thanks!

What pads do you recommend? Are the 3D ones better than alternatives with their products? I have Rupes and Lake Country right now.

How long does the bead it up last? Is it similar to a Turtle Wax Hybrid spray wax?

What do you recommend for plastic trim after cleaning? I've been using VRP or Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions but would be happy to try something different.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Awesome info! Thanks!

What pads do you recommend? Are the 3D ones better than alternatives with their products? I have Rupes and Lake Country right now.

The 3D pads are incredibly durable. I've been punishing the 6.5" light purple foam polishing pads and the 6.5" dark purple foam cutting pads for a year now including all my classes, all the detail work I do and machine washing and machine drying them and I just cannot kill them.

How long does the bead it up last? Is it similar to a Turtle Wax Hybrid spray wax?

How long any product lasts depends on how the paint is "touched". Wash your car with a brick and nothing lasts very long.

You're thinking of this product wrong. The cool feature about it unlike conventional paint protection products is

It's quick, fast and easy to apply

So after washing your car, just give your car a quick wipe-down with the Bead It Up and your car will always look amazing. Plus the slickness. A 16 ounce bottle cost $15.00 bucks - if you're like most people, after using it one time you'll never want to be without it.

What do you recommend for plastic trim after cleaning? I've been using VRP or Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions but would be happy to try something different.

In the 3D line we have the LVP Conditioner. It's cousin is LVP Cleaner. LVP stands for Leather, Vinyl and Plastic.

 

[BradNC]

You're the man! Thanks for the help.

I grew up working in a body shop and the guy I worked for is using 3D stuff. He's been using the 6.5 dark purple pad with compound and then polish. This is for fresh paint. Is there a combo of 3D stuff you recommend that would let him get good enough results in one step for the average auto body consumer? He just tried 3D One for the first time and said it didn't quite cut hard enough to not need a compound. I think he's using it on a rotary. But if he can get from 2 steps to 1 it would be a big time savings.

 

[BradNC]

I got a gallon of Bead It Up on your recommendation. I’m getting a good bit of streaking with it. Am I using too much product? I tried adding a bit more to wet it again but that didn’t seem to help much. I decontaminated prior to application but there was Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray on it before that. Aside from figuring out the application I love it so far.