Short before and after - dry sanding video

[Mike Phillips]

Short before and after - dry sanding video


Will have a full video of the process for my brand new YouTube channel, but here's a short video snagged off my Facebook page.

Dry sanding a 1967 Mustang California Special - Test Spot

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Mike Phillips - Real World Detailing


More to come...

 

[DanaDetail]

One thing Mike said on one of his recent sanding videos was, that sanding was for single stage paint only. And if you sand any new production cars it would just kill the clear coat. Then I see a ton of videos where they are demonstrating dry and wet sanding on new cars with great success.

 

[Mike Phillips]

One thing Mike said on one of his recent sanding videos was, that sanding was for single stage paint only.

I've never said that sanding is for single stage paint only in my life and I did not say this in the above short video? I just re-listened and I don't hear it?

Can someone else besides DanaDetail watch and listen and see if they hear me say this?

And if you sand any new production cars it would just kill the clear coat.

I never said the above either.

What I say to people is that the FACTORY CLEARCOAT is thinner than a Post-It Note and then I say,

1. Sanding removes paint
2. Compounding removes paint
3. Polishing removers a LITTLE paint

Even if you're' so good you don't sand, compound or polish through the clearcoat layer of paint - you will leave the clearcoat layer of paint so THIN that it will likely suffer clearcoat failure at some point in time.

MOST SANDING in the world is done on CUSTOM PAINT JOB like you see me doing on this Mustang. I called the painter and asked him how much paint he sprayed when he painted the Mustang and he said he sprayed 3 heavy coats of clear.

I sanded the entire car down and buffed it out and NEVER sanded or buffed through the clear layer of paint. This is called success. I have pictures and videos that I will be sharing for the entire process as soon as I can get to it. I just finished teaching a 3-day class so I'm a tick busy.

Then I see a ton of videos where they are demonstrating dry and wet sanding on new cars with great success.

Each person can do as they believe to be safe, right and correct in their own eyes.

I don't teach people to sand factory clearcoats. Can it be done? Yes, of course. Is it a good idea? That's up to you.

The factory clear layer of paint is thinner than a Post-It Note. Even if all the experts on Facebook, YouTube an Instagram are sanding factory paint and telling you to do it - don't including me in this group of experts.

I hope the explained to the owners of the cars they have sanding the they have left them Whisper Thin paint on their cars. And... don't park that car out in full sun and rain for the rest of the car's life as the hood, roof and trunk lid will get clearcoat failure prematurely.


Hope what I've written above makes sense.

Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Nick Rutter and I held a 3-day detailing class this last weekend. On day 3 we covered machine dry sanding on 2 cars.

BOTH CARS HAVE CUSTOM PAINT JOBS - WE DON'T PRACTICE AND WE DON'T TEACH TO SAND FACTORY PAINT.

1969 Mustang Fastback​

This is another training car for the Sunday Dry Sanding Class. This is a fresh, custom paint job with orange peel, die back and DIP - or Dirt in Paint.

1987 Monte Carlo SS - Dry Sanding Class​

This car will be used for our Sunday Dry Sanding Class. Students will learn how to machine dry sand custom paint to remove orange peel and other surface texture. The goal is to remove the orange peel to flatten out the paint. Next the class will use rotary polishers to remove the sanding marks followed by using orbital polishers to create a flawless, swirl-free finish.

LOL - So many experts teaching sanding now days. I woujld love to see REAL write-ups or videos where they explain in detail what they do, why they are doing it and then show how the sanded and buffed the ENTIRE car.


I'll believe it when I see it.


-Mike Phillips

 

[DanaDetail]

Thank you Mike. I am still trying to find the video. It was when you were getting ready to teach a class about a month ago. Now I'm very interested to watch it again. I do remember you did say it was as thin as a post it note.

 

[2black1s]

One thing Mike said on one of his recent sanding videos was, that sanding was for single stage paint only. And if you sand any new production cars it would just kill the clear coat. Then I see a ton of videos where they are demonstrating dry and wet sanding on new cars with great success.

I responded to this claim on that other forum to set the record straight over there. This is a perfect example that you CAN'T rely blindly to everything you read ANYWHERE. You have to be smart enough to distinguish between good and bad information.

Here's how I responded over there.

"Just for clarification...

As far as I am aware, Mike never said that you can't, or shouldn't, sand clear coats; or that sanding is only for single stage paints. What I have heard him say is that sanding "factory" clear coats is not the best idea, and sanding should be reserved for repaints, single-stage or base coat/clear coat, that will typically have a paint film thickness greater than that of a factory finish."

 

[Bill G]

Mike, this question has nothing to do with sanding, but it is relevant to removing clear coat over time, which as you point out, everyone needs to be mindful of. In that context, for very well cared for cars where one might want to just do a very fine polishing once a year, I am looking at trying the Menzerna 3800 or possibly 3500 as well as the 3D AAT 502 Finishing polish. Any comments on these would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, this question has nothing to do with sanding, but it is relevant to removing clear coat over time, which as you point out, everyone needs to be mindful of. In that context, for very well cared for cars where one might want to just do a very fine polishing once a year,

1. I am looking at trying the Menzerna 3800
2. or possibly 3500
3. as well as the 3D AAT 502 Finishing polish.

Any comments on these would be greatly appreciated.

Those are all top shelf products that from my experience - they all use great abrasive technology. When I left the geek, I was offered a LOT of jobs from a lot of companies anyone in the online car detailing world would recognize. I chose 3D specficially but Menzerna asked me if I would consider joining their team and it was a great offer. Both companies make great products. Just to note, sometime today I need to get back to 3D about working at a trade show for them at the Detail Fest Brasil show in Brasil. I'm happy to say I left 3D on good terms and we carry 3D, I use 3D when I detail professionally and I showcase 3D products in my car and boat detailing classes.

We also carry all these products on AutoForge and as soon as I can get to each product - I will continue to use these products and then create fresh content including reviews, how-to article and videos.

Menzerna Super Finish Plus SF-3800

Menzerna Super Finish SF-3500

3D AAT 502 Finish Polish



-Mike Phillips

 

[Bill G]

Thanks Mike. I have them in my Autoforge cart to buy with other items you suggested like the 6" flex backing plate to use with the Supa Beast, as well as the Bead It Up you recommended to me a few weeks ago. But besides them all being great products, is there any one of the three you would recommend over the others? I have read the 3800 and the 3500 are so similar in results that you can't tell the difference in results, so I was leaning towards the 3800 given it is only a 2 cut level (preserve as much clear coat as possible) vs 3 for the 3500. But I also read the 3800 has a different polish in it that was referred to as a "true" polish? I don't know if that is reliable info or not. Also, I don't know where the 3D 502 comes in as far as cut goes. I think it is a 2 as well but not sure. I also had read something on the 3D 520 being a new formula and "state-of-the-art" technology with the Alpha Ceramic Alumina powder. And it was better than the 502. Very confusing for someone trying to decide between them who is not in the business and hasn't had the occasion to try them all.