278 Pictures - 1-Day November 2025 Car Detailing Class - 3 Cars Detailed! - No Chairs! - ALL Hands-on!

[Mike Phillips]

278 Pictures - 1-Day November 2025 Car Detailing Class - 3 Cars Detailed! - No Chairs! - ALL Hands-on!

Apologies for the delay, right after this Saturday class, I took Sunday off and then Mondy, flew out to Las Vegas to work in the FLEX booth at SEMA. Caught the #SEMACRUD and now playing catch-up.


Awesome People - Amazing Results!
All 3 cars came out phenomenal, and I'll be sharing the before, during and after shots below. But first, here are the 7 people that took this 1-day class.

Nelson - Bogota, Columbia

Nicolas - Buenos Aires, Argentina

Doug - South Carolina

Walter - Florida

Eugene - Florida

Juan - Kentucky

Mark - Florida

Thank You!
Thank you to everyone for putting your trust in the good name of Dr.. Beasley's as well as my own. I hope the class was everything you hoped for and expected.

I truly appreciate that each one of you were focused on the task at hand as we worked through the three primary topics and the matching car for each topic. I feel confident that are all SUPER COMFORTABLE using all the popular types of polishers including, Rotary Polisher, Gear-Driven Orbital Polisher and Free Spinning, Random Orbital Polisher.

 

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Before Condition - Documented

1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo AWD - Barn Find!

Detailometer Before Readings

Ouch! Not looking good...

More Ouch! - Not looking any gooder!

Extreme Prep Wash
First thing was to wash away years of dirt build-up and even what looked like green mold.

Thank you, EGO, for sponsoring our car and boat detailing classes!

Test Spot
First thing after washing, decontaminating, machine polishing the glass, machine scrubbing the tires, then rinsing and drying off, it's time to dial-in our Show Car Detailing Process by doing a Test Spot.

Test Spot is successful, next the class takes over and I walk around and watch and when needed, tweak technique.


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

At 7:30am it's GO TIME!

1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo AWD - Barn Find!
First up is this 1991 Dodge Stealth that has been sitting under a tree for years!

The first tool my classes learn to use is the rotary polisher. Why? Because of the old saying,

"Use the right tool for the job"

Well... sometimes the rotary polisher is the right tool for the job and when anyone leaves one of our classes we want you to,

1. Know how to use a rotary polisher.
2. Know when to use a rotary polisher.
3. Most important - feel comfortable using a rotary polisher.

And of course, we follow all our rotary work with orbital work to ensure 100% there will be no holograms left in the paint.

Rotary Polisher Training - First Tool - First Day - First Thing in the Morning

Eugene working on the passenger side hood.

Mark working on the driver's side hood.

Here's Nelson tackling the driver's side roof.

Here's Juan working on the passenger side rear of the car.

Removing Swirls and Scratches out of the 34 year-old plastic taillights.

Here's Doug doing some Topical Glass Polishing on the back window.

After knocking out all the higher horizontal panels, the class moves downward to the vertical panels.

Here's Nicolas working on the passenger side door.

Here's Nicolas working the rotary like a BOSS to remove years of neglect from the side mirror!

And here's Nelson working the rotary polisher like a BOSS on the driver's side mirror.

Here's Eugene doing some Topical Glass Polishing to the passenger side windshield.

Nice work everyone, the decades of neglect have been removed using a wool pad on rotary polishers using Dr. Beasley's CoreCut.

Next up... switching over to gear-driven orbital polishers.



Mike

 

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Step 2 - Machine Polishing to Remove any Holograms and Perfect the Finish
After cutting he paint HARD using wool pads on rotary polishers, next up the class uses THEIR CHOICE - Gear-Driven Orbital Polishes with Buff and Shine EdgeGuard Yellow Foam Polishing Pads and Dr. Beasley's NSP 150.


Eugene and Mark have chosen the RUPES Mille - which is a 5mm gear-driven orbital polisher.

Nicolas has chosen the FLEX Supa BEAST, which is an 8mm gear-driven orbital polisher.

Doug has chosen the FLEX Supa BEAST

On the driver's side is Nelson using the FLEX Supa BEAST - 8mm gear-driven orbital

Looks like Juan has also chose the FLEX Supa BEAST

Here's Walter tackling the rear of the car and he's using the FLEX Supa BEAST

Why do you like the 6" Buff and Shine EdgeGuard buffing pads on the OPTIONAL 6" Backing Plate for the FLEX Supa BEAST?
Because the larger footprint of the larger pad gives you MORE REACH with a tool that has ZERO PAD STALLING - when buffing into tight areas.

See what I mean? With the larger buffing pad on the larger backing plate, Juan can easily knock out all the paint correction in the hard to reach tight areas.

Next up... time to install the ceramic coating using the Buddy System.


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

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Time to Seal the Paint
To seal the paint, the class will be using the Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin 2.0 Ceramic Coating. This is an easy to use, even for first-timers, ceramic coating that maximizes gloss and shine while leaving behind a hydrophobic surface that beads water to help the car self-clean anytime it rains hard plus faster to wash and dry moving forward.


Paint Coating Builder
The first step is to treat all the paint with Paint Coating Builder. This will maximize clarity of the clearcoat while creating anchor points for the ceramic coating to form a stronger bond to.

Nano-Resin 2.0 Ceramic Coating
Next the class will install the Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin 2.0 Ceramic Coating.

Besides learning a lot, you make new lifelong friends. Here's Nicolas and Juan installing the ceramic coating to the passenger side of the car.

Here's Walter installing the coating to the driver's side

Up front, Nelson coats the driver's side of hood and front clip.

The Buddy System
Walter and Doug using the Buddy System to install the ceramic coating. The Buddy System is where one person installs the coating while the other person levels the coating and then removes any excess. The Buddy System is a fast way to get an entire car coated. If you work alone, you can always ask your wife, girlfriend, etc., to be your Buddy!

Mike

 

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Here's before and after

Before Condition - Documented

Here's the Final Results!

Here' the Team that made the Magic Happen!
From left to right - Eugene, Nelson, Juan, Mark, Walter, Doug and Nicolas

Before the class started, there was ZERO reflections in the paint - now you can see the student's reflection in the hood.

Mike

 

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Here's the Detailometer BEFORE Readings for the CENTER of the hood.
The general idea for taking before and after readings is to try to take these reading in the same place for some level of control to show real-world results.

Ouch! Not looking good...

Here's the Detailometer AFTER Readings for the CENTER of the hood.

Huge Difference!
Right below the Detailometer is a small piece of detailing clay and this is to keep the Detailometer from sliding off the hood and breaking.

For quick and easy reference, here's the before and after stats

Here's the Detailometer BEFORE Readings for the section of paint just above the
I measured this area on the hood because the Hood Blister will keep the Detailometer from sliding off the hood.

Here's CONTEXT shot - so you can easily see the section of paint we're going to measure both before and after readings.

This is what the paint often looks like for a Barn Find. Look how dull, lifeless and stained the paint is after years of neglect.

Measuring

More Ouch! - Not looking any gooder!

Here's the Detailometer AFTER Readings for the section of paint above the Hood Blister.

Dramatic before and after difference!

For quick and easy reference, here's the before and after stats

The Human Aspect
And of course, your eyes are also a great tool for measuring.

BEFORE

AFTER
And keep in mind, for the majority of people taking this class, this is their first time to use any type of polisher, so not bad.

Here's a Quick Refence Guide to Understand the Results

Next up, the second training car, a 2007 Corvette ZO6


Mike

 

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Next up, Car Number 2 and Topic Number 2
The first car was all about doing show car style detailing, which besides being a multiple-step process is also when you're doing your best work ever to take the paint on the car to it's maximum potential.

Mid-Range - 2-Step Paint Correction and Ceramic Coatings
For this next car, the class will focus on starting with gear-driven orbital polishers like the FLEX family of 8mm gear-driven polishers as well as the 5mm RUPES Mille and the 8mm Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher. After the first major paint correction step, they will do a second finish polishing step and for this it's YOUR CHOICE for orbital polishers. The class can pick any of the orbital polishers off the tool racks and even test/use multiple tools - it's all up to you.

For this topic and car, the class will start with the Dr. Beasley's NSP 150 and finish with the Dr. Beasley's NSP 95 and then seal the paint using the Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin 2.0 Kit.

Detailometer BEFORE Readings
Note the paint on this Corvette while neglected and with swirls and scratches, it's not horrible. This is why I brought this car in for this topic. I match the condition of the car for the topic being taught. Yes, there's a method to my madness.

Not too bad, but there's plenty of room for improvement, so let's see what the class can do.

It's GO TIME! - Not sit in a chair time!

5" Factory Installed Backing Plate versus 6" Optional Backing Plate
Here's Mark using the FLEX Supa BEAST with the factory 5" backing plate. I keep ONE FLEX Supa BEAST in the shop with the facotry 5" backing plate so the students can compare the same tool using the optional 6" backing plate and of course, for each size backing plate - the matching size buffing pad. What I know and others can determine for themselves, is this tool has plenty of power to turn and churn larger pads and by using larger pads you can go faster because you're abrasing/polising with a larger footprint. It also helps to stablize the tool and make buffing easier on you. And one more thing, the larger 7" Buff and Shine EdgeGuard yellow foam buffing pad you see the students using because it's larger - it has MORE REACH.

See my article for more info
Supa BEAST and CBEAST Backing Plate Swap by Mike Phillips

Here's Eugene using the FLEX Supa BEAST with the optional 6" backing plate and larger buffing pad.
Note the PowerPoint slide in the background shows the car the class is working on. This is the extent of my PowerPoints nowadays. More hands-on time, zero sitting time.

Here's Nelson using the RUPES Mille, which is a 5mm gear-driven orbital polisher
Because it's gear-driven, like the FLEX BEAST polishers, there's' ZERO PAD STALLING. Not sure why you never see much online talk about this tool.

Here's Doug out back using the 8mm gear-driven FLEX Supa BEAST.

Here's Walter using the FLEX Supa BEAST
Check out the reflection of the Dr. Beasley's logo on the wall reflecting in the paint on the hood of the Dodge Stealth. When the Dodge Stealth first arrived, there was ZERO reflection. That was a GREAT WARM UP training car.

Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Mark started with the FLEX Supa BEAST and because this is how our classes roll, on the same car, for the same topic, he's also testing out the Harbor Freight copy of the FLEX XC 3401 VRG aka the BEAST.

Here's Nicolas using the RUPES Mille

Topical Glass Polishing
Another topic we cover in our classes is Topical Glass Polishing. Topical glass polishing is removing water spots, traffic film and drizzle stains off the glass while doing the paint correction step. In this case, Doug and the rest of the class use the SAME product for the first paint correction step for the glass. If the compound or polish is clearcoat safe, it's glass safe. Note Topical Glass Polishing is ONLY removing gunk off the SURFACE of the glass. I do teach Sub-Surface Glass Polishing, which is removing scratches out of the glass, but that's a FREE BONUS CLASS that takes place the day BEFORE the class for those that are interested enough to get to our shop the day before. There' simply not enough time to included this during the Saturday class as you can see by the pictures, there's simply too many topics we already cover during the actual class.

Tape-off and Protect Exterior Black Plastic Trim
Notice there's not much blue masking tape on this car because there's not much exterior black plastic trim. But what there is, we always tape-off and protect. It's faster overall to tape-off and protect exterior plastic trim than it is to try to remove any accidental staining after the fact. Don't learn this lesson the hard way.

Getting Glossy!
This is just after the Dr. Beasley's NSP 150, but the paint is already looking super glossy!

Next up...
Step 2 - Finish Polishing with Dr. Beasley's NSP 95 and students' choice of orbital polisher.


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

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Building on the results from the first step while maximizing gloss, clarity and shine
Next up, the class is switching over to Dr. Beasley's NSP 95, which is similar to a FINE CUT POLISH with a soft white Buff and Shine foam polishing/finishing pad on their choice of orbital polisher.


Here's Eugene and Mark tackling the hood

Here's Eugene is testing out the CORDLESS RUPES BigFoot 21mm Free Spinning, Random Orbital Polishers

Here's Mark using the Griot's Garage G9 Free Spinning, Random Orbital Polisher. This has a 9mm orbit stroke.

Check out the spinning pad next to the Carbon Fiber Spoiler
Here's Walter working on the rear deck with the FLEX Supa BEAST and here's just ONE thing I like about the Buff and Shine EdgeGuard Pads

The outer edge of the foam pad is recessed, and this protects the paint from the backing plate and enables you to buff or REACH further into difficult areas to buff. Genius pad design.

Here's Nicolas using the Porter Cable 7424XP Free Spinning, Random Orbital Polisher, which has an 8mm orbit stroke.

No chairs!
I love these pictures because besides showing the type of cool cars we bring in for you to train on, all you see are people on their feet with tools-in-hand, learning and training by doing - not sitting around watching a PowerPoint presentation. Nothing wrong with PowerPoint Car Detailing Classes as I use to teach using a PowerPoint presentation, but I cover too many tools, techniques and topics that I completely stopped using PowerPoint presentations to teach people how to detail cars. But... if you learn better by taking information in via your eyes, ears and taking notes, by all means, get signed up for some other company's academic class.

Here's Nelson using the CORDLESS RUPES BigFoot 21mm free spinning, random orbital polisher.

Wow! Look at the difference from a 2-step paint correction process!

Next up, the class will seal the paint using the Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin 2.0 Ceramic Coating.


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

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Time to Seal the Deal
Next up, the class installs the Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin 2.0 Ceramic Coating. This is a hydrophobic coating that creates a high surface tension finish that beads water like crazy!

The Buddy System
In my classes, we use the Buddy System for a lot of techniques like installing the coating. One buddy applies the ceramic coating and then after waiting the the coating to flash, (about 45 seconds), the other buddy LEVELS the coating and then removes any excess. When we move onto the next car, the buddies switch roles so everyone gets plenty of practice installing a ceramic coating while speeding up the process so we can move onto the next topic and the next car.

If you're going to install ceramic coatings, you need a great hand-held inspection light
The light helps your eyes to locate and identify any high spots. This is important because if you DON'T remove 100% of the coating, it will dry and harden and then the only way to remove it will be to machine polish the affected area. Dried, hardened ceramic coating that is not fully removed is called a High Spot.

Here's Doug and Walter using the Buddy System to Install the Ceramic Coating

Here's Juan working with his buddy, Nicolas to install, level and remove the ceramic coating.

Here's Nelson installing the ceramic coating to the driver's side roof.

And here's Eugene leveling the coating, removing any excess and using a Swirl Finder Light to check for High Spots

Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

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Here's the Final Results!

Final Touches
When this car arrived, the tires were dull with tire browning, also called tire blooming. Yours truly washed this car the week before the class because the focus of our one-day classes is paint correction, not washing cars. I used Dr. Beasley's Intensive Wheel Cleaner to clean the wheels and brake calipers, (non-acid), I machine scrubbed the tires using Dr. Beasley's new, yet to be released Foaming Tire Cleaner. And the class dressed the tires on this Corvette and all the tires on all the cars with our new, yet to be released Tire Coating.

Here's the team that made the magic happen!
Amazing work everyone!

I'm pretty sure if you find Nicolas's Instagram and Facebook pages, you'll see this picture.
Thank you for travelling all the way from Bogota, Colombia to take this class Nicoloas.

My comments...
When you look at the before readings from the Detailometer and compared to the after readings, you can see NUMBERS that don't show a lot of difference. But when you look at the pictures above, it's pretty easy to see, this car did NOT look this good when it arrived. A Mid-Range, 2-Step Paint Correction Process can work miracles as long as you're using great abrasive technology, the right pad and tool for the job and of course - great technique.



Mike