My neighbor wants me to detail/ceramic coat his new to him 2014 Forest River 32' Flagstaff Classic Super Lite trailer . It has been sitting outside uncovered for its entire life. Honestly it doesn't look that bad, it's just dull looking. It does have some scratches that I have seen from just a quick walk around.
I'm planning on using a
- Flex C-Beast,
- Rupes polishes &
- Rupes pads (wool/foam) as needed upon doing a test spot.
I do have a cordless Flex rotary if that would be a better option. Just not as comfortable with it as the C-Beast.
The above combo should work - your Test Spot will tell you and help you to dial-in the best process.
If this trailer has been sitting outside its entire life, 2021 - 2014 = 7 years. The condition is relative to the environment. In Arizona - the oxidation would be a lot more severe than if the trailer were in Bellingham, Washington. Because gelcoat, or polyester resin with pigment, is more porous than clearcoat urethane paint, the oxidation can go deep, not just be topical. Again - geographical location and exposure to sun is a huge factor.
Regardless, if it looks good to you then cross your fingers that you can restore the finish to your and the owner's expectation in one step using only a polish and a foam polishing pad. Try this for your Test Spot and let us know how it looks.
Worst case scenario - you cut her with a wool pad on a rotary polisher and then remove the holograms and polish to a high gloss with your CBEAST - then chemically strip and coat.
Do you have a ceramic coating and a panel wipe?
Anything in particular to look out for on fiberglass trailers?
When it comes to working on pigmented polyester resin, aka gel-coat, just like single stage paint, the PIGMENT will determine the hardness. Assuming, (and I hate to assume), but assuming this trailer is WHITE - then the pigment will be some variation of titanium dioxide powder and the gel-coat will be very hard. This makes it hold up better to oxidation but it also makes it more difficult to abrade and polish.
Just do a normal style Test Spot starting with a "polish" and a foam "polishing" pad - make 4 solid section passes after spreading the product out on the high speed of your CBEAST and then wipe off the residue and inspect.
I would also suggest placing a tape-line on the surface and working on just one side of the tape-line to make it easier for you to visually determine the before and after results.
New RUPES compounds and polishes are formulated to be "short cycle" thus the recommendation to make only 4 solid section passes instead of say for example 8 solid section passes. You could even try just 2-3 solid section passes.
To really dial-in your process, Test 2-3 section passes and inspect. If it looks good you're lucky. Repeat over the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, clean pad, find a new test area and bump section passes up to 4 to 5 and then inspect. If it looks good count your self lucky and repeat to the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, find a new test area and bump section passes up to 7 to 8 and then inspect. If it looks good count your self lucky and repeat to the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, time to test a more aggressive product and pad.
Can you do a light polish on the decals? I would use my PXE 80 for the decals. Can you ceramic coat over them ( stupid question I know. I say yes but want to verify)
If the decals are glossy - then YES - as long as you're using great abrasive technology and foam. You should be able to use the CBEAST for this to make it go faster unless we're talking about a small amount of graphics.
Yes you can use ceramic coatings on vinyl graphics - just panel wipe first.
How much ceramic coating to do this? I'm thinking two 50 ml bottles should cover it.
I would think 2 50ml bottles would do it. Use coating saver applicators or foam blocks with suede cloths.
I have never coated anything outside. He doesn't have his shelter put up yet so this will be done in his yard or my driveway. Would it be better to just use Wolfgang SI02 Paint sealant?
Depends on the coating, the temperature and the wind. Definitely any paint sealant would be easier than installing a coating.
I'm not doing this for money. My neighbor has been mowing my lawn for the past 3 months while I'm recovering from shoulder surgery. So this is to repay him for helping me out. I'm hoping that I will be able to do this by late October / November time frame.
That's a great neighbor!
Just talking out loud.... one thing I've learned over the years is if a person does not normally take care of their stuff, for example does not normally polish and wax their trailer - chances are good they won't start after someone restores the neglected exterior back to new. Unless something has CHANGED in their thinking and NOW they care, they will just do what they always have done in the past. Just an observation on my part.
I know it's noble to go above and beyond the call of duty especially if you're passionate about making things shiny, even if your OCD about this kind of stuff. But after you do enough free work for people that really don't care and/or appreciate the TONS of work you about to take-on - I would suggest taking a more simple route and use a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO with a foam polishing pad and your CBEAST and call it good.
It will be MUCH faster and MUCH easier to do - especially outside. And "yes" for extra protection you could always top the results with a dedicated sealant and TEACH the owner how to continue using the dedicated sealant. Even show him an entry level polisher to machine apply it.
And "yes" I would whole heartily use and recommend
3D SPEED topped with
3D POXY.
I've done this exact same thing and it is a great approach
Hope the above helps...
P.S. : I tried to post a couple of pics but it said they were too large.
I've changed the settings to allow for larger image file sizes - try again.
