Question About Prepping & Ceramic Coating Travel trailer

Chris C

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My neighbor wants me to detail/ceramic coat his new to him 2014 Forest River 32' Flagstaff Classic Super Lite trailer . It has been sitting outside uncovered for its entire life. Honestly it doesn't look that bad, it's just dull looking. It does have some scratches that I have seen from just a quick walk around. I'm planning on using a Flex C-Beast, Rupes polishes & Rupes pads (wool/foam) as needed upon doing a test spot. I do have a cordless Flex rotary if that would be a better option. Just not as comfortable with it as the C-Beast.

Anything in particular to look out for on fiberglass trailers?

Can you do a light polish on the decals? I would use my PXE 80 for the decals. Can you ceramic coat over them ( stupid question I know. I say yes but want to verify)

How much ceramic coating to do this? I'm thinking two 50 ml bottles should cover it.

I have never coated anything outside. He doesn't have his shelter put up yet so this will be done in his yard or my driveway. Would it be better to just use Wolfgang SI02 Paint sealant?

I'm not doing this for money. My neighbor has been mowing my lawn for the past 3 months while I'm recovering from shoulder surgery. So this is to repay him for helping me out. I'm hoping that I will be able to do this by late October / November time frame.

Thanks for any help !!

P.S. : I tried to post a couple of pics but it said they were too large.
 
My neighbor wants me to detail/ceramic coat his new to him 2014 Forest River 32' Flagstaff Classic Super Lite trailer.

I’ll give you my 2 cents when I’m behind an actual keyboard.

P.S. : I tried to post a couple of pics but it said they were too large.

I’ll look into modifying the settings tomorrow.

:)
 
Okay detailers, time to place your bets before the two cents are posted.

I'm going with hit it with a one step cleaner sealant and apply a longer term wipe-on sealant every 3-6 months.

That's a lot of surface to put a coating on.
 
Okay detailers, time to place your bets before the two cents are posted.

I'm going with hit it with a one step cleaner sealant and apply a longer term wipe-on sealant every 3-6 months.

That's a lot of surface to put a coating on.
You aint lying about the amount of surface area !! LOL!! At least it's flat surfaces .
 
My neighbor wants me to detail/ceramic coat his new to him 2014 Forest River 32' Flagstaff Classic Super Lite trailer . It has been sitting outside uncovered for its entire life. Honestly it doesn't look that bad, it's just dull looking. It does have some scratches that I have seen from just a quick walk around.

I'm planning on using a
  1. Flex C-Beast,
  2. Rupes polishes &
  3. Rupes pads (wool/foam) as needed upon doing a test spot.

I do have a cordless Flex rotary if that would be a better option. Just not as comfortable with it as the C-Beast.

The above combo should work - your Test Spot will tell you and help you to dial-in the best process.

If this trailer has been sitting outside its entire life, 2021 - 2014 = 7 years. The condition is relative to the environment. In Arizona - the oxidation would be a lot more severe than if the trailer were in Bellingham, Washington. Because gelcoat, or polyester resin with pigment, is more porous than clearcoat urethane paint, the oxidation can go deep, not just be topical. Again - geographical location and exposure to sun is a huge factor.

Regardless, if it looks good to you then cross your fingers that you can restore the finish to your and the owner's expectation in one step using only a polish and a foam polishing pad. Try this for your Test Spot and let us know how it looks.

Worst case scenario - you cut her with a wool pad on a rotary polisher and then remove the holograms and polish to a high gloss with your CBEAST - then chemically strip and coat.

Do you have a ceramic coating and a panel wipe?



Anything in particular to look out for on fiberglass trailers?


When it comes to working on pigmented polyester resin, aka gel-coat, just like single stage paint, the PIGMENT will determine the hardness. Assuming, (and I hate to assume), but assuming this trailer is WHITE - then the pigment will be some variation of titanium dioxide powder and the gel-coat will be very hard. This makes it hold up better to oxidation but it also makes it more difficult to abrade and polish.

Just do a normal style Test Spot starting with a "polish" and a foam "polishing" pad - make 4 solid section passes after spreading the product out on the high speed of your CBEAST and then wipe off the residue and inspect.

I would also suggest placing a tape-line on the surface and working on just one side of the tape-line to make it easier for you to visually determine the before and after results.

New RUPES compounds and polishes are formulated to be "short cycle" thus the recommendation to make only 4 solid section passes instead of say for example 8 solid section passes. You could even try just 2-3 solid section passes.

To really dial-in your process, Test 2-3 section passes and inspect. If it looks good you're lucky. Repeat over the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, clean pad, find a new test area and bump section passes up to 4 to 5 and then inspect. If it looks good count your self lucky and repeat to the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, find a new test area and bump section passes up to 7 to 8 and then inspect. If it looks good count your self lucky and repeat to the rest of the trailer. If it doesn't look good, time to test a more aggressive product and pad.


Can you do a light polish on the decals? I would use my PXE 80 for the decals. Can you ceramic coat over them ( stupid question I know. I say yes but want to verify)

If the decals are glossy - then YES - as long as you're using great abrasive technology and foam. You should be able to use the CBEAST for this to make it go faster unless we're talking about a small amount of graphics.

Yes you can use ceramic coatings on vinyl graphics - just panel wipe first.



How much ceramic coating to do this? I'm thinking two 50 ml bottles should cover it.

I would think 2 50ml bottles would do it. Use coating saver applicators or foam blocks with suede cloths.


I have never coated anything outside. He doesn't have his shelter put up yet so this will be done in his yard or my driveway. Would it be better to just use Wolfgang SI02 Paint sealant?

Depends on the coating, the temperature and the wind. Definitely any paint sealant would be easier than installing a coating.


I'm not doing this for money. My neighbor has been mowing my lawn for the past 3 months while I'm recovering from shoulder surgery. So this is to repay him for helping me out. I'm hoping that I will be able to do this by late October / November time frame.

That's a great neighbor!

Just talking out loud.... one thing I've learned over the years is if a person does not normally take care of their stuff, for example does not normally polish and wax their trailer - chances are good they won't start after someone restores the neglected exterior back to new. Unless something has CHANGED in their thinking and NOW they care, they will just do what they always have done in the past. Just an observation on my part.

I know it's noble to go above and beyond the call of duty especially if you're passionate about making things shiny, even if your OCD about this kind of stuff. But after you do enough free work for people that really don't care and/or appreciate the TONS of work you about to take-on - I would suggest taking a more simple route and use a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO with a foam polishing pad and your CBEAST and call it good.

It will be MUCH faster and MUCH easier to do - especially outside. And "yes" for extra protection you could always top the results with a dedicated sealant and TEACH the owner how to continue using the dedicated sealant. Even show him an entry level polisher to machine apply it.

And "yes" I would whole heartily use and recommend 3D SPEED topped with 3D POXY.

I've done this exact same thing and it is a great approach


Thanks for any help !!

Hope the above helps...


P.S. : I tried to post a couple of pics but it said they were too large.

I've changed the settings to allow for larger image file sizes - try again.


:)
 
Okay detailers, time to place your bets before the two cents are posted.

I'm going with hit it with a one step cleaner sealant and apply a longer term wipe-on sealant every 3-6 months.

That's a lot of surface to put a coating on.

Ha Ha.... this is how I would do it myself for all the reasons I listed above.

Quick, fast easy - pro grade results.

There's a local guy that took my 3-day detailing class a number of years ago. He runs an RV Detailing business. He does both - ceramic coatings and AIO packages. Happy to do both if the customer is willing to pay. The AIO package is much more affordable and faster and easier in full sun. And "yes" he uses 3D SPEED. Does most of his work outside in Fort Lauderdale - hot and humid.


:)
 
Pictures of the trailer. Mike, its a two tone beige/brown. The trailer's original owner lived near Richmond, VA. It doesn't look like it was stored under or near trees. I haven't seen any sap on it. I've seen some scratches on it near the front slide out. On the forward side of the slide out is a vertical row of horizontal scratches, Haven't quite figured out what caused them yet. Good thing that my neighbor has a towing business & I can use his flatbed as a work platform.

Mike, I'm not around enough travel trailers(plus , I haven't paid attention to them) but is the paint supposed to be glossy? This trailer just doesn't have that look other than the front cap. Granted, it needs to be washed & there isn't any protection on the trailer. Is all of the dullness just oxidation? Reason I ask is that I gave some advice to our volunteer Rescue Squad on how to clean up an equipment truck that they had acquired. It was a 92 Ford & all of the red paint was so oxidized that it looked like burnt orange.

My neighbor keeps his vehicles washed but he doesn't do a lot of waxing/protecting. He just bought a 2022 Chevy 2500 Custom with the Duramax diesel & Allison transmission to tow this beast. I told him he needs to let me go ahead & detail / ceramic coat it. His reply was "It's brand new, it don't need to be fixed" I laughed at him & explained that now is the time to protect it. Not after it damaged. I'm educating him slowly. LOL!!! He's a good guy & has really helped me out a lot so I can't say anything bad.
 

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From the pictures - I don't think the exterior is gel-coat but paint. I'm not an expert at how they build these but at least for this style - I believe these panels are all pre-fabricated and pre-painted and then the trailer is assembled. I could be wrong.

Regardless - I would to a TEST SPOT with a foam polishing pad and a "polish" and go from there...


Again - polishing, chemically stripping and then coating this trailer is noble and also a TON of work. To me, and I've met plenty of people like your neighbor - if it were me - I hit it with 3D SPEED and then a thin layer of POXY and call it good. It will be a LOT less work as both products wipe off easy and you only have to "work" the SPEED - the POXY is just a matter of using your polisher to spread the POXY over the exterior.

Been there, done that...

:)
 
I have a trailer of Similar size. I use Black Fire one step once a year. Shows good longevity to get through the Minnesota Summer, not to mention that it is a super easy product to use. Easy application, forever buff cycle, and wipes off super easy. In the winter I store it indoors to try and keep the sun off of it as much as possible.
 
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